If your amigurumi heads have little bumps, gaps or lines where the decreases are, the invisible decrease is the fix. It’s a tiny change to the standard single crochet decrease, and it makes the closing rounds of a ball look as smooth as the rest of the piece. Most amigurumi designers use it, and when a pattern simply says “dec”, the invisible decrease is usually the best choice.
What is a decrease?
A decrease joins two stitches into one, so the round gets one stitch smaller. In amigurumi, decreases shape the bottom of a head, close the body and taper arms and legs. Pattern lines like “R13: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)” mean you work 4 single crochet, then 1 decrease, and repeat that 6 times. If you’re not sure how to read lines like this, see how to read a crochet pattern.
Standard decrease vs invisible decrease
Standard single crochet decrease (sc2tog): insert the hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop, insert into the second stitch and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. It works, but it pulls both full stitches together and leaves a small visible bump or gap.
Invisible decrease: uses only the front loops of the two stitches. Because the back loops stay in place, the fabric keeps its normal look and the decrease almost disappears.
How to do an invisible decrease, step by step
- Find the next two stitches. Look at the top of your work. Each stitch has a front loop (closest to you) and a back loop.
- Insert the hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Don’t yarn over.
- Insert the hook into the front loop only of the second stitch. You now have 3 loops on the hook: the loop from before plus the two front loops.
- Yarn over and pull through the two front loops. You now have 2 loops on the hook.
- Yarn over and pull through both loops. The invisible decrease is complete.
That’s it. It counts as one stitch, exactly like a standard decrease.
Tips for perfect invisible decreases
- Insert the hook from front to back in both front loops, at a slight upward angle. This makes it easier to scoop both loops.
- Don’t pull too tight. Firm but relaxed tension keeps the decrease the same size as your other stitches.
- Use it on the right side of the work. If you crochet amigurumi inside out by accident, the decreases will look different. Make sure the “V” stitches face outward.
- Stuff before the last decreases. Once the hole is small, stuffing gets hard. Add most of the stuffing when you have about 18 stitches left. Our guide on how to stuff amigurumi explains how much to use.
Closing the last round neatly
Most balls end with “dec x6 (6)”. To close the remaining hole:
- Cut the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail, and pull it through the last loop.
- Thread the tail on a yarn needle.
- Pass the needle through the front loop of each of the 6 remaining stitches, from the outside in.
- Pull gently, like closing a drawstring bag, until the hole disappears.
- Push the needle through the piece and out the other side, then trim the tail close to the surface so it hides inside.
When not to use the invisible decrease
For flat projects worked in rows, like blankets or scarves, the standard sc2tog is fine and gives a slightly flatter edge. The invisible decrease is mainly for work in the round where the outside surface is on display: amigurumi, hats and baskets.
Practice project
Every pattern on this blog uses invisible decreases. A perfect practice piece is the chibi snowman’s head: it has 5 decrease rounds, so by the end your decreases will be smooth and automatic.
FAQ
Does an invisible decrease count as one stitch?
Yes. Two stitches become one, so it counts as one stitch in the next round.
Can I use invisible decreases with half double crochet?
Yes, the same idea works: work into the front loops of two stitches and finish the stitch as usual. It’s less common, because most amigurumi uses single crochet.
Why do I still see holes?
Check that you’re catching the front loops only, not the front loop of one stitch and both loops of the other. Also try a smaller hook; tight stitches hide everything better.
Pin this tutorial to your amigurumi board so it’s there when you need it.
Cover photo: inspiration photo by afy on Pexels
